The area south and north of the Felbertauern tunnel and East Tyrol is a real Mecca for ice climbers and offers more than 100 ice and mixed routes of all lengths and degrees of difficulty. Due to the favourable location at and south of the main Alpine ridge, the valleys are usually not affected by the foehn weather, which combined with the sea level, leads to one of the most extended ice climbing seasons in the Alps. That is why in "our" region, climbable single and multi-rope lengths in the interesting ice falls can be found from mid-November to the end of March!
A lot of flexibility is required when planning the tours: With the help of the Felbertauern tunnel, south or north dam positions can be skipped easily, so that one is as flexible as possible for the mostly short stay, and as a consequence, the chances of success for appropriate tours remain high.
ice climbing higlights in the region Felbertauern & East Tyrol
- north portal icefalls (right & left portal icefall), WI 3 - WI6, 100 - 300m
- Innergschlöß (the icefalls called Schildfall & Kesselfall) & Ice Park East Tyrol, WI3 - WI6, 50 - 350m
- Hexenkessel (the icefalls called Feuertaufe and Seemannsreise), WI5 - WI6, up to 250m
- the icefalls called Brühl and Mittewalder, WI5-5+, up to 180m
- ice arena Defereggen valley (the icefalls called Wasserseiche, Ploner Wasserfälle, Zottenbock), WI3 - WI6, 50 - 350m
- Rudolfshuette (the icefall "Glaeserne Madonna"), WI3 - WI6, up to 350m
schedule
Once you have arrived in the region of Felbertauern / East Tyrol, an individually tailored programme is offered. Depending on climbing skills, fitness level, weather, avalanche and ice conditions, the iceGuides, who know the icefalls in the region like the back of their hand, will guide you over a suitable icefall!
location / how to get to destination
The Felbertauern and the region of East Tyrol lie amidst the heart of the Eastern Alps, embedded in between Carinthia, South Tyrol, Salzburg and Friuli. You can reach the gates of East Tyrol in 45 minutes after leaving the Inn Valley motorway or the Tauern motorway.
Access to the icefalls is between 5 minutes and 1.5 hours. In late autumn and early winter, they are often snow-free, which makes the whole undertaking even less stressful.
In order to keep the prices manageable, the individual course participants are responsible for the journey to the destination and necessary drives during the course. On top of that, it allows you to be flexible and to undertake further activities, such as ski tours in the ski touring paradise of East Tyrol. Away from the crowds.
sleeping / food
Accommodation and food are not included in the price. However, in addition to the ideal base for the East Tyrolean Ice Park, the Matrei Tauernhaus, there are plenty of accommodation options in Matrei or other places in East Tyrol. We recommend you book the accommodation early enough, as especially in the high season (Christmas, February - March), places are often fully booked.
The tourist information office Matrei in East Tyrol is at your disposal for further information.
www.matreiosttirol.com/service/oeffnungszeiten/
Lastly, do not forget a snack (e.g. sweets, power bars, etc.) and liquid for the day. We recommend to bring warm drinks in a thermos.
apparel and equipment list
Technical material is included in the price.
Since we do not climb constantly, there can be "standing times" in cold temperatures, so make sure to bring along enough warm clothes - one cools down quite quickly!
We recommend you bring light clothing of varying thickness to achieve an "onion system" for greater comfort. Cotton is not suitable as it quickly becomes cold upon getting wet. Skiing apparel, however, works well. Our recommendation: warm merino underwear and a fast warming down jacket.
We recommend:
- long underwear (bottom and top), synthetic, merino or wool
- warm pants (lined or fleece)
- warm fleece or long sleeve shirt (not cotton)
- lined jacket or vest, preferably down jacket
- waterproof jacket with hood (Gore-Tex or nylon)
- waterproof pants (Gore-Tex or nylon)
- socks (merino or ski socks)
- woolen cap or lined cap that protects your ears and fits under a helmet
- waterproof climbing gloves (2 pairs)
- solid mountain boots (in exceptional cases ski boots are also possible)
- gaiters if necessary
- Buff (neck protection)
- a minimum 25 litre backpack (space for clothing, snacks, drinks, climbing equipment)
- sun protection (glasses and cream)
- thermos or water bottle (already full!!!!)
- camera
- personal medicine
If you want to take your own technical material with you: (otherwise rental equipment included in the price)
- crampons: must fit the shoes and be easily adjustable, with vertical front teeth
- climbing harness: always with adjustable leg loops
- climbing helmet
- ice axe: steep ice axe
- screw carabines
- backup device: reverso, ATC or similar
details & insurance
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRICE
- travel to destination
- drive to the respective ice climbing area or icefall
- accommodation costs before, during or after the courses
- travel expenses for the mountain guide
- accommodation for the mountain guide (for tours of 2 days or more)
- travel and cancellation insurance
- personal climbing apparel
- tip